| Tony |
 Posted: 09/08/2007 at 1:27 PM Post subject: Polishing the aluminum |
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Any tips on polishing aluminum would be appreciated. I,m gonna do some experimenting anyway but I need something to go on. Paper, buffer, compound, ... ?
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| Greg Bailey |
| Posted: 09/08/2007 at 5:00 PM Post subject: buffin' |
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HEY!
What will you be buffing?
First, if you're making a part or whatever, file it as smooth as you can, then sand. I normally go to at least 400 grit, maybe even finer. From there, use a hard buffing wheel and a darker compound, something for aluminum or even steel. Don't worry, steel is just a word, I've NEVER buffed aluminum TOO much! once you get through that with no visible scrathes, go to a soft or loose buffing wheel with a white compound, this will get any swirling left from the first wheel. I have my 2 wheels mounted on an arbor and I chuck them up in a lathe. I usually run at 1500 to 2000 RPM, but with the power of the lathe, I don't need tons of RPM. You CAN use a buffing motor thing, you know, like a grinder with buffing wheels instead of stones. I've done it and it works fine, mine is 3/4 hp but a lot of RPM. The thing is, I can't press hard against it without stopping it or slowing it way down, so it does take longer to use it, but it WILL work. Now, once you're done buffing, you HAVE to clean the part. You can use WD-40 or even alcohol, but these will both leave a thin film, but they will get the black junk off. Once the black is gone, just rub it hard with a soft, clean cloth and it'll be like a mirror. Just one problem. You can't touch it any more! You'll leave fingerprints all over it! I've had to wear cloth gloves at times with some of the guitars and necks I've made.
CRAP!!!! I almost forgot!!!! Make sure when you start buffing to wear some gloves to protect your hands, but make sure they're kind of thick and soft. I use a pair of leather gloves that are pretty soft and work pretty well. Whatever you do DO NOT TRY TO KEEP THE PART COOL! Heat is your freind here, if you can't get it warm, very warm, even hot, it won't buff well. If your part is all aluminum, you may even want to pre heat it in an oven or something. Don't get it REALLY hot, but just hot like it's been sitting in the sun. Actually, I used to buff outdoors in the sun to get more heat. On the loose buffing wheel, if it's not hot, you'll get black streaks of compound all over the part.
Anyway, I hope this helps!!
Greg Bailey, Bailey Custom Guitars & Parts
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| Tony |
| Posted: 09/09/2007 at 2:05 PM Post subject: thanx |
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Thanks Gerg for the tips. It is an honor to have your input. I will post pictures of my first aluminum neck if this goes well. I will post them if it dosnt go well also.
Tone
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| Kevin |
| Posted: 09/13/2007 at 11:37 PM Post subject: |
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I generally just wet sand my stuff. I start at 80-320 dry and then 400-2500 wet and finish with a buffing bonet and mothers billet polish. Curves are way more forgiving than flat surfaces, so it should be pretty easy. Also use 3M paper, its expensive but well worth it.
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| tone |
| Posted: 09/17/2007 at 10:10 AM Post subject: protective coatings |
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Any experience with protective coatings? I am probably going to try one to see if it can help with fingerprints and such. Maybe something other than what others have used so that we can compare.
Tone
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| Kevin |
| Posted: 09/18/2007 at 03:12 AM Post subject: |
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Ive messed with Velenos with anodized necks as well as the Martin Hard Coat, Imron etc, it all has its ups and downs. Im just not a fan of coating aluminum in any way at all, it always leads to problems. I just like things shiny.
Please do let us know what you find out there.
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| tone |
| Posted: 10/12/2007 at 6:30 PM Post subject: polishing the aluminum |
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I see what you mean. I've just experienced the joy of buffing and producing that uniquely beautiful and pure luster. I'm hooked. I will try some kind of polish to try to maintain and ward off finger prints. NEED MORE METAL... MORE METAL.
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| Martin Blatherwick |
| Posted: 11/24/2007 at 10:08 PM Post subject: Polishing the aluminum. |
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Just thought that I would throw my 2 cents in on this issue.
I have a couple of marks on my headstock and I'm going to use what I used on my son's aluminum valve covers for his custom Camaro. I bought Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and it worked miracles on 35 years of corrosion.
However, I would recomend trying an out of the way spot first. On minor marks and spots this stuff is great. Heavier duty problems would need further prep for the polish. It also has a protective finish that removed the fingerprint issue.
Hope that this is helpful.
MartinB
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| tony |
| Posted: 11/26/2007 at 8:07 PM Post subject: polishing |
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I will try the Mothers. Had my hands on it but instead bought the nevr-dull wadding recomended by travis bean. It may be good for removing oxidation but I was not impressed by its polishing or protecting from fingerprints.
Thanks for the tip.
Tone
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| Ethan Kolasinski |
| Posted: 12/20/2007 at 11:25 AM Post subject: Polishing aluminum |
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I used Mothers Billet polishing compound with a buffer head attached to my electric drill. BLING!
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| tone |
| Posted: 12/28/2007 at 7:55 PM Post subject: mothers |
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Mothers it is. Finaly tried it and it works well.
I used 7075 for my neck and 6061 for the body section. The 7075 machines better polishes better and easier and in my opinion is worth the added cost.
Tone
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| Ethan Kolasinski |
| Posted: 12/29/2007 at 03:38 AM Post subject: ethankolasinski.com |
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To hear what the Kramer sounds like that Ethan Kolasinski bought, check out:
http://www.ethankolasinski.com/
Ethan Kolasinski
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